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Domaine Michel Niellon Clos Saint-Jean Rouge, Chassagne-Montrachet Premier Cru, France 2020

Regular price $ 143.00

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As was the case in 2017, the 2020 Chassagne-Montrachet 1er Cru Clos Saint-Jean has turned out especially well this year. Bursting with aromas of pear, freshly baked bread, orange oil and beeswax and framed by a deft touch of reduction, it's medium to full-bodied, ample and satiny, its fleshy core of fruit girdled by tangy acids. While Michel Coutoux and his daughter Marlène bemoan the impact of climatic extremes on their vineyards—much of the replantings of the 1980s and 1990s, which ought to be entering their prime, will have to be replaced in the near future due to the degeneration of the 161-49 rootstock—the wines of Domaine Michel Niellon themselves remain remarkably unmarked by recent dry, warm vintages. The 2020s are no exception: lively, beautifully balanced and even comparatively tightly wound after their bottling before harvest 2021, they continue a strong recent run at this estate. As ever, bottling is under natural cork.

94 Pts Wine Advocate