"The 2004 Chianti Classico Riserva Vigna del Sorbo is just starting to show early signs of tertiary notes, but only in its bouquet, as the wine remains rich, full-bodied and ample on the palate. New leather, licorice, menthol, red cherries and smoke are all layered into the tannic finish. The 2004 was an exceptional wine when it was made, but it has since been surpassed, a testament to proprietor Giovanni Manetti's drive, ambition and skill. Still, my sense is that the 2004 may be going through a bit of a closed phase. I am tempted to let bottles sit for another year or two."