Guy Breton Regnie, Beaujolais, France 2017
Guy Breton is known by his friends as Petit Max – though he is anything but petit, by the way. He took over the family domaine from his grandfather in 1986. Following the example of traditionalist Jules Chauvet, Guy and three other local vignerons, Marcel Lapierre, Jean-Paul Thévenet, and Jean Foillard, soon hoisted the flag of the back-to-nature movement. Kermit dubbed this clan the Gang of Four, and the name has stuck ever since. The Gang called for a return to the old practices of viticulture and vinification: starting with old vines, never using synthetic herbicides or pesticides, harvesting late, rigorously sorting to remove all but the healthiest grapes, adding minimal doses of sulfur dioxide or none at all, and refusing both chaptalization and filtration.
"The 2017 Régnié offers up a lovely bouquet of raspberries and grilled meats, followed by a medium to full-bodied, tangy palate that's structured around some youthfully chewy tannins. Despite the back-end grip, this is an open-knit, charming expression of Régnié."