Philipponnat Clos des Goisses, Champagne, France 2009
"The 2009 Clos des Goisses, tasted from a trial disgorgement, is more than a worthy follow up to the stunning 2008. Bright, focused and powerful, with terrific freshness for the year, the 2009 is pure sensuality. To be sure, there is plenty of vintage 2009 radiance to the citrus, orchard fruit and pastry flavors, but the blocked-malo style helps the wine retain plenty of verve. The 2009 is 61% Pinot Noir and 39% Chardonnay, with no malolactic fermentation. Charles Philipponnat chose to scale down the number of lots fermented in oak to 37% in order to temper some of the natural richness of the year. He seems to have succeeded, as the 2009 retains terrific vibrancy."