Weingut Keller Riesling Trocken, Rheinhessen, Germany 2017
2016 Tasting note:
"Fresh apple and lime piquantly accented by their seeds and suffused with maritime mineral matter dominate both the effusive nose and the brightly juicy, firmly textured palate of this vibrant “basic” Riesling bottling, sourced largely from high-elevation fruit not harvested until the last week in October and still at a mere 82 Oechsle, which translated into a buoyant 11.9% alcohol. Hints of gooseberry and green tomato add to the stimulation and fascination of this bottling, though they also remind one that many Riesling growers would not have called this fruit optimally ripe. So much for the virtues of “optimal ripeness” in their sense! The finish blazes a trail that leaves your tongue quivering for half a minute after it passes. This gem can be purchased by Keller’s private customers for a mere eight euros, and you can buy it stateside for around $20-24, but consider yourself lucky if either opportunity comes your way, because 14,000 or so bottles get painstakingly rationed and then rapidly gobbled up. (For more about what has made this bottling really tick in recent vintages, consult my note on its 2015 installment. I told him Keller should be advertising it as his “Gutskabinett Trocken,” though of course, the Rheinhessen VDP might frown on that.)"
David Schildknecht Vinous Media