2022 Raul Perez Ultreia La Claudina Godello, Bierzo, Spain

From the village where the Pérez family has farmed for more than three centuries, La Claudina is Raúl Pérez at his most quietly radical — a single sandy parcel of old-vine Godello in Valtuille de Abajo, fermented spontaneously in one old foudre and left to grow a veil of flor through the spring, exactly as fine Sherry or Jura whites do. The result is Godello reimagined: biscuit, wafer, and white flower laced with raw almond and a saline mineral pulse, broad and creamy on entry yet drawn tight by acidity and a long, savory finish.

This is not the fresh, simple Godello most shops stock. It is the textural, age-worthy, single-site bottling collectors chase — and it is made in roughly 2,200 bottles.

• 100% Godello, single old-vine parcel in Valtuille de Abajo (sandy soils, planted 1995)
• Spontaneous fermentation in one old 1,500L foudre; veil of flor develops in spring
• Aged on its lees; lean, mineral, Burgundian/Jura-leaning structure (~13.5% alc.)
• Raúl Pérez — pioneer of "The New Spain," a 100-point Parker producer