Punta Crena’s Mataòssu vines are old—planted in 1930—and face the sea, and there’s a windswept quality to the wine. It has a spicy nose, like aromatic wild herbs and flowers, tough and stunted from the constant marine breeze. Underneath lies a hint of ripe pear. In the glass, it’s lean, bracing, and tangy—just what you want when digging into a plate of fried calamari.