While immediately recognisable as an aged white Rioja – it’s a blend of 75% Viura, 5% Malvasía and 20% other varieties from vines averaging 60 years of age in the Sierra Cantabria foothills, fermented then aged for six months in French oak barrels, 76% new and 24% second-use – this is a wine with its own personality. Savoury notes and a touch of umami are evident – as is the oak influence – but there is a fresh core that reflects the structure of the vintage. White floral notes and lemony freshness lead to a rich and layered palate with a saline finish. Hugely satisfying now, this will surely also develop with time.

96 Pts Decanter