One of the more dazzling whites to look at as it sits in the glass, this old-vine Carricante gets its luxurious golden hue from four days of skin contact, a traditional process on Etna that really brings out the distinctive scents of this special place. The lava stones that make up the soil, the direct sun beating down on steep blackened slopes at elevation, the wild herbs growing among the vineyard rows, and even the plume of smoke wafting from Etna’s summit . . . it’s all there, plus a ravishing dollop of wildflower honey to round things out.