The 2023 Riesling Steinriegl was one of the sites affected by hail, so no Smaragd could be made since there was insufficient yield. The soil is of silicate marble, with high active lime content, a rarity within the Wachau. The finest flinty reduction blends seductively with the brightest citrus, think lime and lemon. The palate is superfine, super-stony, graceful and utterly fine-boned. Smaragd or not, this is a stony, elegant, citric marvel of uncompromising clarity. It is beautiful and has a fine, even slightly astringent finish.

94 Pts Vinous