This vivid Champagne shows up-front and linear definition, thanks to rapierlike acidity, with finely meshed flavors of ripe black cherry and mandarin orange fruit, raw almond, anise and cardamom spice as well as a touch of honeycomb, which all unfurl and expand on the fine, creamy palate. Sleek acidity continues through to the finish, with additional racy character provided by a streak of minerally saline and chalk, which gains momentum through the midpalate and rings out on the well-cut, lasting finish. Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. Drink now through 2040. 9,181 cases imported.

An initially faint but distinct hint of freshly cut green but ripe apple, of lemon. Subtle florality, a mere touch of freesia, hints at more nuance to come. More time in the glass reveals a sense of still briny oyster shell. The palate is like a summer breeze, caressing the palate with finest, creamiest foam – and again that saltiness that is utterly seductive and appetising. There is immense vertical richness in that creamy but svelte texture. Despite the generosity, the creaminess, there is nothing superfluous to obscure the wine’s essential and clear-cut luminosity. This is a model of sleekness, understatement and depth, an utterly compelling combination of briskness and emollience. Irresistible now but guaranteed to evolve. A.K.

99 Pts Falstaff