The 2016 Brunello di Montalcino is savory, dark and almost animalistic, with blackberries and currants giving way to crushed stone, licorice and smoked meats. It’s silky in texture, with depths of spicy black fruits complemented by hints of sour citrus and stimulating acids. There’s so much to like here, as residual acids keep the experience fresh in spite of grippy tannins and youthful restraint. It’s briary at times yet sapid, salty and unbelievably persistent. San Carlo really knocked this one out of the park. The 2016 spent three years in 30-hectoliter Slavonian oak barrels and one year in bottle before release.