Stony phenolics, saline acidity and subtle stone fruit allusions. Yet the point of this medium-bodied chardonnay is not one of overt fruit, but restraint, composure, tension and torque. Full pre-fermentation oxidative handling and a laissez-faire six-months on gross lees serves a demur savoriness, compression and detail. This is a thinker’s chardonnay.

95 Pts James Suckling