Unlike the lean, stern, and notoriously austere Chablis of yore, this release from Domaine Costal is generous, fleshy, and discreetly tropical, as if someone had planted pineapples in the Arctic. All its richness of flavor is then funneled down to a pinpoint focus on the snappy finish. The palate is left with a flinty note akin to gun smoke lingering after a shot.