Most Pinot Grigio is drunk up immediately, and rightfully so: typical renditions range from thin and diluted at their worst to lean, crisp, and minerally at their best. But with Duline’s Ronco Pitotti, made from vines sixty to eighty years old, that satiating stoniness we crave from Pinot Grigio dances over sublime golden fruit and a hint of toasted almond to give a bianco that is concentrated and fleshy, yet still supremely refreshing. With such balance, it is hard to resist right now, but it promises to develop into something else completely for those patient enough to wait ten to twenty more years.