This is a very old school Beaujolais in the best sense: beautiful garnet color, beguiling aromatics, and a burst of refreshment in the mouth—and that burst is a savory, mineral, toothsome thing because of the domain’s high elevations and because of Mont Brouilly’s blue granite. Some crus emphasize soil notes, others give fruit, but only good Côte de Brouilly gives stone in the flavor.