This has the vivid, driven cassis, boysenberry and blackberry fruit of the vintage, but it's well-harnessed, with streaks of racy anise, alder and sweet bay leaf providing focus and precision. There's a long echo of iron and savory through the finish as the fruit lingers, leaving a mouthwatering feel. Understated in style compared with its colleagues, but no less complex. Best from 2022 through 2038.

96 Pts Wine Spectator