From the village where the Pérez family has farmed for more than three centuries, La Claudina is Raúl Pérez at his most quietly radical — a single sandy parcel of old-vine Godello in Valtuille de Abajo, fermented spontaneously in one old foudre and left to grow a veil of flor through the spring, exactly as fine Sherry or Jura whites do. The result is Godello reimagined: biscuit, wafer, and white flower laced with raw almond and a saline mineral pulse, broad and creamy on entry yet drawn tight by acidity and a long, savory finish.

This is not the fresh, simple Godello most shops stock. It is the textural, age-worthy, single-site bottling collectors chase — and it is made in roughly 2,200 bottles.

• 100% Godello, single old-vine parcel in Valtuille de Abajo (sandy soils, planted 1995)
• Spontaneous fermentation in one old 1,500L foudre; veil of flor develops in spring
• Aged on its lees; lean, mineral, Burgundian/Jura-leaning structure (~13.5% alc.)
• Raúl Pérez — pioneer of "The New Spain," a 100-point Parker producer