The 2015 Champagne Special Club Brut is a seductive offering from the Chiquet house. Pouring a silver-straw hue and composed of 68% Chardonnay and the rest Pinot Noir, this year's release is lush and expressive on opening, with a decadent perfume of red apple, sweet brioche, honeyed Meyer lemon, and wet stone. Approachable on the palate, it opens with a rounded and pillowy mousse, a supple texture, and modest acidity, although at this stage, it remains fresh and inviting, with a touch of green almond notes on the finish. Although I don’t see 2015 as the longest-lived of vintages, this wine will have an open drinking window that may prove to surprise me over the coming decade or more.

Jeb Dunnuck