This is gamay and poulsard grown in limestone, fermented without additions and bottled before it’s finished, as a pétillant naturel. If you haven’t tasted Bugey-Cerdon, it may come as a surprise, with sweet notes of candied rose petals, fresh lingonberries, a little greenness and some pink grapefruit acidity. Asked what she might serve with this wine, Tasting Director Sarah Looper suggested pouring it as an aperitif, “or with Vietnamese food, Thai food or light nut desserts like hazelnut cake or a savory strawberry tart”.