Sélèque is the name sommeliers drop when they want to sound ahead of the curve. From Pierry, just south of Épernay, Jean-Marc farms a patchwork of old-vine Chardonnay and assembles 'Quintette' from five distinct terroirs — Vertus, Épernay, Pierry, Mardeuil and Dizy — with vines planted as far back as 1950. Fully barrel-fermented, 20% perpetual-reserve solera, barely any dosage. Confit lemon, poached pear, toasted cereal, a pillowy mousse over laser-cut acid.