The anchor — and one of the highest-scored grower Champagnes in the building. 'Les Chétillons' is the legendary Le Mesnil-sur-Oger lieu-dit made famous by Pierre Péters; Moncuit's parcel was planted in 1956, fermented in barrel, aged 60 months on lees, bottled at zero dosage. Lime and grapefruit peel, almond blossom, salted-almond toast, a searingly chalky finish that runs for a decade-plus. Drink now through 2050.