2021 | Bhilar "Struggling Vines Phinca Hapa" Tinto | Rioja | Spain

A biodynamic, horse-ploughed Rioja from vines planted in 1967 — 92 points from Tim Atkin.

David Sampedro and Melanie Hickman run Bodegas Bhilar biodynamically in Rioja Alavesa — ploughing with horses, powering the winery on solar and wind. "Phinca Hapa" is a pioneering 2.9-hectare parcel on white limestone at 646 metres above Elvillar, planted back in 1967. The 2021 is Tempranillo-dominant with 6% Graciano and 2% Viura, whole-cluster fermented, aged a year in 500-litre casks then about seven months in foudre. Tim Atkin gave it 92 points in his Rioja Report.

A Bhilar Phinca Hapa is Rioja for the modern purist. Biodynamic, horse-ploughed, 1967 vines at 646m, 92 points → pure, chiselled, floral → you're drinking new-wave Rioja.

• Tempranillo with 6% Graciano · 2% Viura
• Elvillar, Rioja Alavesa — Spain
• Bodegas Bhilar — biodynamic, solar & wind powered
• 2.9ha limestone parcel at 646m, planted 1967 · 92 pts Tim Atkin

Pure, chiselled and floral with subtle reduction, red berry fruit, wildflowers and mild spices over fine chalky tannins and a spicy, whole-bunch finish. Translation: a fresh, precise Rioja — red fruit and wildflowers with a whole-cluster spice lift over fine, chalky tannins. Sappy and savoury; a world away from oaky old-school Rioja.

A biodynamic old-vine Rioja. Exactly the bottle for grilled lamb, roasted vegetables, or charcuterie.