Trinch!, a punchy, bistro-style Bourgueil that’s both structured and glouglou, may be the most quintessential Breton cuvée of the lot. Young-vine Cabernet Franc, full of energetic vigor, is gently de-stemmed and cold-macerated in stainless steel to ensure maximal fruit expression. When served chilled, this bottling smells like a gravel road after a summer rain, firm and fresh, and leaves me craving a cold slab of terrine or gamey pate.