This 2014 from Les Matheny is pure, classic, highest-quality Jura Chardonnay. It couldn’t be anything else. It pours a deep, deep yellow-gold in the glass with flashes of green and takes its time releasing an intoxicating array of aromas. A skilled touch of (encouraged) oxidation throughout the wines three-year élevage in barrel delivers brooding notes of bruised pear, quince, overripe pineapple, yellow and green apples, marzipan, preserved Meyer lemon, crushed almonds, fino sherry, honeycomb, crushed river stone, exotic baking spice, and damp acacia. On the palate, a textural masterpiece unfolds.