Familie Saahs Nikolaihof Steiner Hund Reserve Riesling, Wachau, Austria 2016

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This ended up with the highest acidity (after malo) of the Stagård Rieslings – despite sharing the same extended pre-fermentative maturation, whole berry inclusion and long lees contact as its siblings – and Urban Stagård observed that this is typical for the Hund site, or at least for his vines there, and a trait enhanced by vinification entirely in tank. “But this was also the wine that had the strongest notes of spontaneous fermentation” early on, he noted, “which some folks would call a stink. And since there was plenty of underlying fruitiness, I made an exception to my usual practice and stirred the lees some.” I don’t find what little is left of fermentative overlay to be at all objectionable, and the scents of ripe apricot and apple, elder flower and cassis are mingled with evocations of wet stone and struck flint that anticipate the active impression of mineral impingement delivered on a lusciously fruity palate. Brightness of fresh lime and piquancy of huckleberry enhance the refreshment and invigoration of a mouthwatering, energetically lingering finish admirably transparent to mineral nuances. And at a mere 12.1%, this lowest-alcohol of the Stagård site-specific offerings delivers a delightful sense of lift.

94 Pts Vinous