2021 | I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna Etna Bianco "Ante" | Sicily | Italy

High-altitude Etna white from a Salvo Foti project — noble Carricante grown on the volcano.

I Custodi delle Vigne dell'Etna is part of the world of Salvo Foti and his I Vigneri, farming organically at soaring altitude on Etna's volcanic slopes. "Ante" — Etna spelled backwards — is built on Carricante, one of Italy's most noble white grapes, with a splash of Grecanico and Minnella, all grown 700+ meters up where salty sea breezes meet volcanic soil.

Serious, terroir-driven Etna Bianco from a cult name is a sommelier's secret weapon. Carricante that Suckling likens to fine Chablis and dry Riesling → in a league of its own → at $46.99 you're drinking one of Italy's most distinctive whites.

• ~90% Carricante, with Grecanico and Minnella
• Etna Bianco, Sicily — 700m+ volcanic vineyards
• I Custodi / Salvo Foti (I Vigneri); organic farming
• Fermented and aged in stainless for purity

Polished citrus and stone fruit over wet stone and a saline, volcanic core; racy, linear and intensely mineral. Translation: grapefruit and lime cut with sea-salt and smoke — electric, savory white built for crudo, sushi and the raw bar.

A benchmark volcanic white from one of Etna's guiding figures. Exactly the bottle to pour for anyone who thinks they've tasted everything.