Aromas of cherries and raspberries, with hints of orange rind, raw coca, rose petals and earthy bass notes of loamy soil. Medium to full-bodied, rich and fleshy, it's layered and velvety, with an ample core of fruit, powdery tannins and a long, savory finish. The 2019 vintage has turned out nicely at this tiny domaine of scarcely more than three hectares, and while the wines clearly bear the stamp of a warm, ripe vintage, they're purer and more elegant than the rich, carnal 2018s; a vintage Jouan and I revisited in the form of a bottle of Clos Saint-Denis, opened and finished in his storage shed while he smoked several of his signature cigarettes—a memorable way to begin the day, and proof, if further were needed, of the lengths to which I go to keep readers optimally informed. These are resolutely old-fashioned Burgundies, with everything that entails, and it's easy to understand why they have a devoted following among wine lovers for whom they offer not only considerable organoleptic stimulation but also the undeniable pleasure of indulged nostalgia.