The 2015 Montefalco Sagrantino Colle alle Macchie wafts up dusty and darkly floral as crushed wild berries, sage and leather gain lift through a hint of cedar shavings. There’s a cool-toned feel within, and silky textures that usher in mineral-tinged black fruits, savory herbs and a bitter twang of salted licorice. Violet florals emerge through the finale over a saturation of grippy tannins lasting for well over a minute, but youthfully clenching to the very end. Those gruff Sagrantino tannins currently dominate the 2015 Colle alle Macchie, which will require many years of cellaring to come fully into focus. Giampaolo Tabarrini took the reins of the Tabarrini family holdings in the late 1990s. The winery is located just outside of Montefalco and includes 11 hectares of vines, primarily Sagrantino, Sangiovese and Trebbiano Spoletino. What really sets this estate apart is the importance that Giampaolo Tabarrini places on terroir, focusing on distinct parcels within their holdings that create unique expressions. Their estate Sagrantino blends fruit from throughout their vineyards, yet it’s in their cru bottlings Grimaldesco (southeast-facing, silty-limestone-clay soils at 350 meters), Campo alla Cerqua (south-facing, looser clay, mineral soil full of river stones at 365 meters) and Colle alle Macchie (south-facing, deep, thick clay and limestone soils at 380 meters) that you see just how sensitive to site the variety really is. These are big, strapping wines, but their balance is remarkable, making them a sure bet for extended cellaring. Also of serious note is the Adarmando, a varietal Trebbiano Spoletino that matches intense fruit and power without sacrificing elegance. Tasting the new 2019 against the mature 2010 made me a believer in this cuvée’s ability to mature. Montefalco (Perugia) Umbria
92 Pts Eric Guido, Vinous