The Valdeorras DO sits at a higher altitude, in an inland part of Galicia that winemakers have long found to be well suited for the notoriously finicky godello grape. By finding just the right moment to harvest, Rafael Palacios manages to highlight the variety’s natural acidity and the minerality of his plots’ granitic soils, while avoiding any green bitterness in his wines. His terraced parcels (sortes in Galician) line the steep slopes of the Bibei River valley, where vineyard work can be arduous. That work pays off in this delicious cuvée, pressed from some of Rafael’s younger vines, fermented with indigenous yeasts in large foudres, and aged on the fine lees for four months. That lees contact comes through on the nose in a delightful mix of herbs and flint, with a hint of nutty richness. The medium-bodied palate is textural, mineral, and citrus. Organically grown, biodynamically grown.