The wine is labeled “old vine,” but the vines that go into this Demoiselle make Diochon’s look like tender, young things. Made mostly from Carignan—much of it planted in 1904—this rouge showcases the soul, depth, and polish that often come from century-old vines. Evoking strawberries and blackberries, stones and garrigue, and the faintest hint of black olives, La Demoiselle is a late afternoon in the south of France.